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--- a/documentation/qudio/index.html
+++ b/documentation/qudio/index.html
@@ -137,7 +137,7 @@ h2, h3, h4 {
 				width="480" alt="Electronic parts for the Qudio player" /></a>
 
 		<ul>
-			<li>JBL On Stage IIIP</li>
+			<li>JBL On Stage IIIP (the older On Stage III with the mini USB port works as well)</li>
 			<li>The <a href="https://github.com/tliero/qudio/tree/master/case">case, which consists of four parts</a>. I printed mine in standard PLA.</li>
 			<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W with a micro SD card a pin header</li>
 			<li><a href="images/IMG_20190122_091336.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="CJMCU-5102 with 10 k&#8486; resistor">CJMCU-5102 plus a 10 k&#8486; resistor</a>, some PCM5102A based module or any other I2S DAC that is supported by volumio. Search for 'pHAT DAC'. A USB sound card will not work, since the USB port is used by the webcam. (And the sound of the DAC modules is usually better.)</li>
@@ -190,11 +190,11 @@ h2, h3, h4 {
 		</p>
 		
 		<p>
-		After removing the screws you can upen up the case. The circuit board is fastened with another four screws that have to be removed. Then the board can be pulled out of the case carefully. The power button of the speaker is the most sensitive part here. To make life easier, you can also pull off the speaker cables from the board. Now the cover is completely separated from the bottom and the circuit board.
+		After removing the screws you can upen up the case. (<a href="images/IMG_20190123_154258.jpg" data-fancybox="mounting" data-caption="The holes are placed where the drill would not hit the circuit board.">It is possible to drill the holes without removing the circuit board from the case. However, it might be a good idea to play it safe and get it out.</a>) The circuit board is fastened with another four screws that have to be removed. Then the board can be pulled out of the case carefully. The power button of the speaker is the most sensitive part here. To make life easier, you can also pull off the speaker cables from the board. Now the cover is completely separated from the bottom and the circuit board.
 		</p>
 		
 		<p>
-		The next step is to drill the three mounting holes into the cover, for which you can use <a href="misc/JBL_screws_drilling_template.pdf">this template</a>. Finally, we need to mount the base of the printed case to the speaker case using thee M3 screws with nuts. Afterwards, we can put the circuit board back in the case and put all the screws back in place.
+		The next step is to drill the three mounting holes into the cover, for which you can use <a href="misc/JBL_screws_drilling_template.pdf">this template</a>. (Make sure to print without scaling.) Finally, we need to mount the base of the printed case to the speaker case using thee M3 screws with nuts. Afterwards, we can put the circuit board back in the case and put all the screws back in place.
 		</p>
 		
 		<p class="gallery">
@@ -255,7 +255,7 @@ h2, h3, h4 {
 		
 		<h3 id="wiring">Wiring</h3>
 
-		<h4 id="audio-module">Audio Module</h3>
+		<h4 id="audio-module">Audio Module</h4>
 		
 		<p>
 		If you are also using the CMJCU-5102 module, you will have to <a href="https://blog.sengotta.net/connecting-a-pcm5102a-breakout-board-to-a-raspberry-pi/">pull the XMT pin to high by connecting it to the 3.3V pin via a 10 k&#8486; resistor.</a> This will unmute the audio output. Also, the FLT, DMT, SCL and FMT pins should be <a href="images/IMG_20190122_120812.jpg" data-fancybox data-caption="While not being the nicest soldering job known to man, the connection of the FLT, DMT, SCL and FMT pins to GND serves its purpose.">connected to the module's GND pin on the backside</a>. That way, only a single cable connection to GND on the Raspberry Pi is needed.
@@ -284,7 +284,7 @@ h2, h3, h4 {
 						width="320" alt="The CJMCU-5102 audio module needs a 10 k&#8486; resistor between XMT and 3.3V to unmute. I just soldered the biggest one I had directly on the board. The FLT, DMT, SCL and FMT pins are all connected to the GND pin on the backside." /></a>
 		</p>
 
-		<h4 id="camera">Camera</h3>
+		<h4 id="camera">Camera</h4>
 
 		<p>
 		Before the <a href="http://www.penguin.cz/~utx/hardware/USB_Camera_AX2311/">camera</a> can be put into the case, the clip on the backside has to be removed. Simply push out the pin and take it off. Now you can clip off the clip holders from the camera case.
@@ -311,22 +311,28 @@ h2, h3, h4 {
 		Put the cover on top for the correct distance, then check if you get a clear picture. If not, turn the lens a bit and check again until you have a sharp image.
 		</p>
 		
-		<h4 id="buttons">Buttons</h3>
+		<h4 id="micro-usb-adapter">Dock Adapter Cable</h4>
+
+		<p>
+		Now insert the adapter cable on the dock connector in front of the camera. It should fit in nicely without any adjustments.
+		</p>
+		
+		<h4 id="buttons">Buttons</h4>
 		
 		<p>
-		The three buttons go directly in the small pockets on the bottom part of the printed case. While the front pins are put into the small holes in order to fasten them tightly, the pins on the other end should be bent up. I ended up soldering some F-M wires directly onto the pins, but using F-F wires is also an option. Connect the buttons to pins 9 (for PREV), 10 (for PLAY/PAUSE) and 11 (for NEXT). The other sides go to the ground pins 20, 30 and 34.
+		The three buttons go directly in the small pockets on the bottom part of the printed case. While the front pins are put into the small holes in order to fasten them tightly, the pins on the other end should be bent up and soldered to the male end of the jumper wires. Connect the buttons to pins 9 (for PREV), 10 (for PLAY/PAUSE) and 11 (for NEXT). The other sides go to the ground pins 20, 30 and 34.
 		</p>
 		
 		<p class="gallery">
 			<a href="images/IMG_20190122_213553.jpg" data-fancybox="buttons" data-caption="The straightened pins can be directly soldered onto the M-F jumper wires"><img src="images/IMG_20190122_213553.jpg"
 					width="320" alt="The straightened pins can be directly soldered onto the M-F jumper wires" /></a>
-			<a href="images/IMG_20190122_221850.jpg" data-fancybox="buttons" data-caption="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera and the dock adapter. In this earlier test I used F-F jumper wires, which is also an option. However, I got tired of having them falling off while working on the electronics, so I soldered the cable ends onto the button pins."><img src="images/IMG_20190122_221850.jpg"
-					width="320" alt="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera and the dock adapter. In this earlier test I used F-F jumper wires, which is also an option. However, I got tired of having them falling off while working on the electronics, so I soldered the cable ends onto the button pins." /></a>
+			<a href="images/IMG_20190123_163719.jpg" data-fancybox="buttons" data-caption="The straightened pins need to be bent upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera and the dock adapter"><img src="images/IMG_20190123_163719.jpg"
+					width="320" alt="The straightened pins need to be bent upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera and the dock adapter" /></a>
 			<!--a href="images/IMG_20181211_134417_cr.jpg" data-fancybox="buttons" data-caption="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent even more upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera"><img src="images/IMG_20181211_134417_cr.jpg"
 					width="320" alt="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent even more upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera" /></a-->
 		</p>
 
-		<h4 id="sensor">Sensor</h3>
+		<h4 id="sensor">Sensor</h4>
 		
 		<p>
 		The TCRT5000 sensor module is connected as follows:
@@ -363,7 +369,7 @@ h2, h3, h4 {
 					width="320" alt="The pins on the sensor board have to be bent up before fastening it inside the cover" /></a>
 		</p>
 		
-		<h4 id="led">LED</h3>
+		<h4 id="led">LED</h4>
 		
 		<p>
 		The led is put in the small holder at the front side inside the cover. Connect the long leg to pin 15 (GPIO 22) of the Raspberry Pi (with a resistor in between, if needed), the short one to pin 9 (GND). I dimmed the LED with a 220 &#8486; resistor even though it could work on 3.3 V because it was just too bright.
@@ -372,7 +378,7 @@ h2, h3, h4 {
 		<h4 id="cables">Closing the Case</h3>
 		
 		<p>
-		Now it is time to put the remaining parts in place: Connect the camera to the Raspberry Pi using the micro USB adapter, put the adapter cable on the JBL and connect the other ends to the audio module and the Raspberry Pi. Put all the cables in a place where they do not block the camera and close the case.
+		Now it is time to put the remaining parts in place: Hook up the camera to the Raspberry Pi using the micro USB adapter. Also connect the two ends of the dock adapter cable to the audio module and the Raspberry Pi. Move all the cables in a place where they do not block the camera and close the case.
 		</p>
 		
 		<p class="gallery">
@@ -469,6 +475,10 @@ LED im Case
 
 Test-QR
 
+Druck säubern, insbes. Button holes
+
+Link zu OnShape
+
   
 deactivate microphone?
 deactivate RasPi LED