correct dock adapter
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<ul>
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<li>JBL On Stage IIIP</li>
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<li>The <a href="https://github.com/tliero/qudio/tree/master/case">case, which consists of four parts</a>. I printed mine in standard PLA.</li>
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<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W with a micro SD card</li>
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<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W with a micro SD card a pin header</li>
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<li><a href="images/IMG_20190122_091336.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="CJMCU-5102 with 10 kΩ resistor">CJMCU-5102 plus a 10 kΩ resistor</a>, some PCM5102A based module or any other I2S DAC that is supported by volumio. Search for 'pHAT DAC'. A USB sound card will not work, since the USB port is used by the webcam. (And the sound of the DAC modules is usually better.)</li>
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<li><a href="images/IMG_20190122_091612.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="TCRT5000 sensor module">TCRT5000 reflective sensor module</a></li>
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<li>The ultra-cheap <a href="images/IMG_20190122_082801.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="USB webcam">USB webcam</a> that can be found on ebay, aliexpress and the like (just sort for price). Some versions come with a small cable reel. This fits perfectly in the holder at the bottom of the case.</li>
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<li><a href="images/IMG_20190122_091508.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="Micro USB adapter that goes directly into the plug">USB A to micro USB adapter</a> that connects the webcam to the Raspberry Pi's micro USB port</li>
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<li><a href="images/IMG_20190122_092518.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="30-pin Apple dock adapter to micro USB and 3.5 mm audio">30-pin Apple dock adapter to micro USB and 3.5 mm audio</a></li>
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<li><a href="images/IMG_20190123_110730.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="30-pin Apple dock adapter to micro USB and 3.5 mm audio">30-pin Apple dock adapter to micro USB and 3.5 mm audio</a></li>
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<li><a href="images/IMG_20190122_093929.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="3 mm white LED (with optional 220 Ω resistor)">White LED (preferably diffused) for illumination of the QR cards with a proper resistor</a></li>
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<li>3 <a href="images/IMG_20190122_082511.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="Push buttons with 12 mm caps">push buttons with 12 mm caps</a></li>
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<li>Jumper cables: 6x M-F 10 cm for the buttons, 5x F-F 10 cm for the audio module, 5x F-F 20 cm for the sensor and the LED</li>
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<li>Jumper cables: 6x 10 cm M-F or F-F for the buttons, 5x 10 cm F-F for the audio module, 5x 20 cm F-F for the sensor and the LED</li>
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<li>A small sheet of acrylic glass / plexiglass (around 2 mm)</li>
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<li><a href="images/IMG_20190122_093439.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="M3 screws and nuts">2 M3×16 screws, 6 M3×8 screws and 3 nuts</a></li>
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<li>5 M3 <a href="images/IMG_20190122_091418.jpg" data-fancybox="part" data-caption="Threaded inserts">threaded heat-set inserts</a></li>
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@@ -314,14 +314,14 @@ h2, h3, h4 {
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<h4 id="buttons">Buttons</h3>
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<p>
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The three buttons go directly in the small pockets on the bottom part of the printed case. While the front pins are put into the small holes in order to fasten them tightly, the pins on the other end should be bent up into a horizontal position. We can easily solder them to jumper cables there and connect to the Raspberry Pi. Connect the buttons to pins 9 (for PREV), 10 (for PLAY/PAUSE) and 11 (for NEXT). The other sides go to the ground pins 20, 30 and 34.
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The three buttons go directly in the small pockets on the bottom part of the printed case. While the front pins are put into the small holes in order to fasten them tightly, the pins on the other end should be bent up. I ended up soldering some F-M wires directly onto the pins, but using F-F wires is also an option. Connect the buttons to pins 9 (for PREV), 10 (for PLAY/PAUSE) and 11 (for NEXT). The other sides go to the ground pins 20, 30 and 34.
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</p>
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<p class="gallery">
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<a href="images/IMG_20190122_213553.jpg" data-fancybox="buttons" data-caption="The straightened pins can be directly soldered onto the M-F jumper wires"><img src="images/IMG_20190122_213553.jpg"
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width="320" alt="The straightened pins can be directly soldered onto the M-F jumper wires" /></a>
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<a href="images/IMG_20190122_221850.jpg" data-fancybox="buttons" data-caption="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent even more upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera. In this earlier test I used F-F jumper wires, which is also an option. However, I got tired of having them falling off while working on the electronics, so I soldered the cable ends onto the button pins."><img src="images/IMG_20190122_221850.jpg"
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width="320" alt="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent even more upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera. In this earlier test I used F-F jumper wires, which is also an option. However, I got tired of having them falling off while working on the electronics, so I soldered the cable ends onto the button pins." /></a>
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<a href="images/IMG_20190122_221850.jpg" data-fancybox="buttons" data-caption="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera and the dock adapter. In this earlier test I used F-F jumper wires, which is also an option. However, I got tired of having them falling off while working on the electronics, so I soldered the cable ends onto the button pins."><img src="images/IMG_20190122_221850.jpg"
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width="320" alt="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera and the dock adapter. In this earlier test I used F-F jumper wires, which is also an option. However, I got tired of having them falling off while working on the electronics, so I soldered the cable ends onto the button pins." /></a>
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<!--a href="images/IMG_20181211_134417_cr.jpg" data-fancybox="buttons" data-caption="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent even more upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera"><img src="images/IMG_20181211_134417_cr.jpg"
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width="320" alt="In the case, the straightened pins need to be bent even more upwards in order to leave enough space for the camera" /></a-->
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</p>
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