tilman/piplayer
1
0
Fork 0
Code Issues Pull Requests Actions Packages Projects Releases Wiki Activity
Files
42d4d70a680caee0e9f1758e3a8a6fe07cd5cd92
piplayer/documentation/index.html
T
tilman 42d4d70a68 documentation
2017-01-24 20:57:16 +01:00

541 lines
28 KiB
HTML
Raw Blame History

<!doctype html>
<html lang="de">
<head>
<title>PiPlayer 2: The AudioSphere</title>
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" />
<meta property="og:image" content="http://www.tilman.de/projekte/piplayer/photos/02.jpg" />
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://ajax.googleapis.com/ajax/libs/jquery/1.7/jquery.min.js"></script>
<link rel="stylesheet" href="fancybox/source/jquery.fancybox.css?v=2.1.5" type="text/css" media="screen" />
<script type="text/javascript" src="fancybox/source/jquery.fancybox.pack.js?v=2.1.5"></script>
<link href='https://fonts.googleapis.com/css?family=Open+Sans:400,800' rel='stylesheet' type='text/css' />
<link href='https://fonts.googleapis.com/css?family=Lora:400,400italic,700,700italic' rel='stylesheet' type='text/css' />
<link rel="stylesheet" href="https://maxcdn.bootstrapcdn.com/bootstrap/3.3.5/css/bootstrap.min.css">
<style type="text/css" media="all">
<!--
body {
background-color: #FFFFFF;
color: black;
font-family: 'Lora', serif;
font-size: 160%;
}
h1 {
font-family: 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;
font-weight: 800;
text-align: center;
color: #303030;
}
h2, h3 {
font-family: 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;
font-weight: 800;
color: #303030;
}
#subtitle {
font-family: 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;
font-weight: 800;
font-weight: 800;
text-align: center;
color: #303030;
font-size: 120%;
margin-bottom: 2em;
}
.gallery {
text-align: center;
}
.timestamp {
font-family: 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;
text-align: right;
color: #888;
margin-top: 2em;
}
.fancybox-title {
font-family: 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;
}
-->
</style>
<script type="text/javascript">
$(document).ready(function() {
$(".fancybox").fancybox({
openEffect : 'none',
closeEffect : 'none',
helpers : {
title : {
type : 'inside'
}
},
beforeShow : function() {
var alt = this.element.find('img').attr('alt');
this.inner.find('img').attr('alt', alt);
this.title = alt;
}
});
});
</script>
</head>
<body>
<div id="content" class="container">
<p class="timestamp">2017-01-14</p>
<h1>AudioSphere</h1>
<p id="subtitle">An easy-to-use music player for children based on the Raspberry Pi Zero and the JBL On Stage IIIp</p>
<p style="font-weight: 700;">In spring 2016 I finalized the <a href="http://tilman.de/projekte/musikrakete/">Musikrakete</a>, an MP3 player that our boys could operate without assistance. This is the second version, that is even easier to use. Music is played by simply placing a QR code card on top of the sphere.</p>
<p class="gallery" style="float:right;">
<a href="photos/02.jpg" class="fancybox"><img src="images/audiosphere-02.jpg"
width="480" alt="The AudioSphere. The QR cards are placed on the window on top, where they are detected by a photo sensor that triggers the recognition process. After the code has been read by the webcam, the respective playlist is loaded via network and played directly." /></a>
</p>
<h2 id="toc">Contents</h2>
<ol>
<li><a href="#idea">The Idea</a></li>
<li><a href="#piplayer2">PiPlayer, version 2.0: AudioSphere</a></li>
<li><a href="#case">3D Printed Case</a></li>
<li><a href="#hardware">Hardware and Assembly</a></li>
<li><a href="#software">Software</a></li>
<li><a href="#manual">User Manual</a></li>
</ol>
<h2 id="idea">The Idea</h2>
<p>
This project started about a year ago, when Anica asked me if buying a <a href="https://de-de.hoerbert.com/">hörbert</a> MP3 player would be a good idea. At the time our boys wasted two to three CDs every week, trying to get some music out of the small player in their room. And the player in the living room also seemed to reach its end of life pretty soon due to their enthusiasm. Still I wasn't too sure about this hörbert thing. In order to get new files on the SD card of the player, the case had to be opened, the navigation with 11 buttons also seemed a little confusing and a single speaker operated with four batteries also did not seem promising to me.
</p>
<p>
I had seen a <a href="http://www.die-schembergs.de/index.php?page=qr-music">project description of an MP3 player for small children</a> shortly before: A Raspberry Pi, connected to a webcam and speakers reads QR codes and plays the respective track or playlist. So this was what I suggested and to my surprise it was considered a better solution right away. And I had a project.
</p>
<p>
As good as the project description seemed to be, I wanted to make some improvements on the original design: The player should detect the QR cards on its own, all components should be put together in a single case and, most important, the MP3 files should be delivered directly from our home server. No SD card replacement needed.
</p>
<p>
Since we had an old <a href="https://www.amazon.com/JBL-OnStage-30-Pin-iPhone-Speaker/dp/B0017XMN7C">JBL OnStage IIIp</a> speaker lying around that wasn't used anymore due to its outdated iPhone dock connector, I decided to use this as a base. After playing around with <a href="https://www.onshape.com/">Onshape</a>, soldering and programming for three months, I had the <a href="http://tilman.de/projekte/musikrakete/">Musikrakete</a> ready by end of March 2016. It's been a huge success with the boys and has been in heavy use ever since.
</p>
<p>
But there were still some open ends on the technical side and I knew that we might need a second player, once the boys both have a room of their own. So when Anica was searching for a good gift to her best friend's son we decided that an updated version would be a good idea.
</p>
<h2 id="piplayer2">PiPlayer 2.0: AudioSphere</h2>
<p>
The major improvement in handling was switching from a QR card slot to a window on top where the QR cards are placed on. I had seen that especially the smaller one had problems getting the cards into the narrow slot. Unfortunately, this also meant that a rocket shape was not an option anymore. At first I tried to put only a hemisphere on top of the JBL speaker which would make it look like a UFO. But the webcam needed at least 8&nbsp;cm distance to the card in order have the entire QR code covered. Technically, it would be possible to further reduce the size of the ball but fitting all the components in there is hard enough as it is. Also, I wanted to be able to use the relatively large cards from the first player in the new one as well.
</p>
<p>
Also, an ethernet port is now available (since we had problems with the Wi-Fi connection in the boy's room) and thanks to switching to the Raspberry Pi Zero, the Apple dock port is now able to power all the components. No additonal power source needed. By incorporating a <a href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/phat-dac">Pimoroni PHAT DAC</a> I removed all the audio-related headaches.
</p>
<p>
On the software side there's two major improvements: The SD card is now mounted read-only by default. This makes unplugging the AudioSphere (by accident or for reboot) unproblematic. And the Python script that operates the player now uses interrupts instead of polling for checking the input sources - no more busy waiting!
</p>
<p>
OK, so much for the overview - let's build this, step by step.
</p>
<h2 id="case">3D Printed Case</h2>
<p>
First step was the design of the new case. Like the first <a href="https://cad.onshape.com/documents/56f3cf83e4b02f6312a93771/w/785ccf8684baed006305bb0d/e/c68592f13fbf9a2c69b8dd05">rocket case</a> it's public, you can find it <a href="https://cad.onshape.com/documents/584e7d080f617710a60fc5d3/w/28f44a0afe402320fa3f3faa/e/765c3d5ab7a1032836866ac8">here on Onshape</a>. (You will need to create an account to open the document.) Or you can download the <a href="https://github.com/tliero/audiosphere/tree/master/case">STL files</a> for printing if you are using the very same components. Please note that you will need to rotate the top of the sphere 180° for printing. Also be careful about the Raspberry holder: The Raspberry Pi together with the PHAT DAC should have a <a href="images/phat_dac_measure.jpg" class="fancybox">height of 7.2 mm</a> (or less) which depends on the GPIO header that is used to solder the PHAT DAC to the RasPi. If the height exeeds that, the distance needs to be adjusted before printing.
</p>
<p class="gallery">
<a href="images/piplayer-04-04.png" class="fancybox" rel="collection01"><img src="images/piplayer-04-04.png"
width="320" alt="The base with the three main electronic components: The Raspberry Pi Zero with the PHAT DAC (blue), the USB hub with the ethernet port (green) and the camera with a representation of its viewport (black)." /></a>
<a href="images/piplayer-02-500.gif" class="fancybox" rel="collection01"><img src="images/piplayer-02-500.gif" width="320"
alt="Animation of the assembly" /></a>
<a href="images/piplayer-02-07.png" class="fancybox"
rel="collection01"><img src="images/piplayer-02-07.png" width="320"
alt="The assembled case" /></a>
</p>
<h2 id="hardware">Hardware and Assembly</h2>
<h3 id="parts">Parts list</h3>
<ul>
<li>The sphere case, printed via <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/">3dhubs.com</a></li>
<li>JBL On Stage IIIP (used via ebay for less than 20 €)</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero with a micro SD card</li>
<li><a href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/phat-dac">Pimoroni PHAT DAC</a></li>
<li>cheap USB Wi-Fi adapter</li>
<li>ultra-cheap <a href="images/micro-usb-hub.jpg" class="fancybox">Micro USB HUB with ethernet port</a></li>
<li>even cheaper <a href="http://www.penguin.cz/~utx/hardware/USB_Camera_AX2311/">USB webcam</a></li>
<li><a href="images/30-pin-apple-dock-to-micro-usb-and-audio-adapter.jpg" class="fancybox">30-pin Apple dock adapter to micro USB and 3.5 mm audio</a></li>
<li>2 mm acrylic glass circle with 75 mm diameter. You can order these on ebay.</li>
<li>3 &times; M3 nylon screws with nuts and washers for mounting the case on the speaker</li>
<li>5 &times; M2.5 nylon screws (with 3 washers and 8 nuts) for the Raspberry Pi and the case</li>
<li>
Electronic components:
<ul>
<li>3 &times; 12 mm momentary push buttons</li>
<li><a href="http://www.vishay.com/docs/83751/cny70.pdf">CNY70 reflective optical sensor</a></li>
<li>Resistors: 2 &times; 100 &#8486;, 4.7 k&#8486;, 10 k&#8486;</li>
<li>NPN transistor</li>
<li>White LED for illumination of the QR cards</li>
<li>Infrared LED (904 nm) for remote controlling the speaker</li>
<li>Jumper wires</li>
<li>copper wire, circuit board, solder</li>
<li>probably a breadboard for testing everything out before soldering</li>
</ul>
<li>
Tools:
<ul>
<li>Soldering iron</li>
<li>Glue gun</li>
<li>Screwdriver</li>
<li>Cutting knife</li>
<li>Power drill</li>
<li>Superglue (for the window and the case nuts)</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h3 id="jblpreparation">Preparing the JBL IIIp Speaker</h3>
<p>
In order to drill the holes for the screws, the speaker has to be disassembled. The procedure is described <a href="https://de.ifixit.com/Guide/JBL+On+Stage+II+Speakers+Replacement/22462">here at ifixit.com for the predecessor</a> which works basically the same way: Remove the rubber pads, then remove all screws from the case. (Don't forget the center screw in the battery case.) Once the speaker case is opened, the circuit board is unscrewed and removed.
</p>
<p>
I drilled the holes for the M3 screws and the IR LED cable using a <a href="misc/audiosphere_drilling_template.pdf">template</a>. The drill itself is set to rotate left. That way, the holes are more or less melted into the plastic to lower the risk of breaking the case.
</p>
<p>
After drilling, washers and screws are added and the infrared LED is glued directly in front of the speaker's IR sensor in order to send it commands. Before that the PINs of the IR LED are soldered to cables that are long enough to connect it to the circuit board through one of the additional holes. Also, all the electronics should be tested together before anything is hot-glued into the case.
</p>
<p>
(Disclaimer: Until now, I only did a proof of concept test script for remote contolling the speaker via the IR LED. I am planning on using that component later on via a web app but for the time being you could as well leave it out.)
</p>
<p class="gallery">
<a href="images/jbl_01.jpg" class="fancybox" rel="collection02"><img src="images/jbl_01.jpg" width="320" alt="The opened speaker case with the drilling template" /></a>
<a href="images/jbl_02.jpg" class="fancybox" rel="collection02"><img src="images/jbl_02.jpg" width="320" alt="The re-assembled speaker with the IR LED in front of the IR sensor" /></a>
<a href="images/jbl_03.jpg" class="fancybox" rel="collection02"><img src="images/jbl_03.jpg" width="320" alt="The closed speaker case with the screws that hold the 3D printed case. (This photo was taken before adding the IR LED.)" /></a>
</p>
<h3 id="electronics">Electronics</h3>
<p>
There are four electronic parts: The reflective optical sensor that triggers the QR recognition process, the LED that illuminates the QR card from within the case, the infrared LED that passes commands to the speaker and the 3 momentary push buttions that are used to pause/unpause playback and move within the current playlist. While the buttons and the LEDs are put directly in the case, all other elements are brought together on a circuit board from where they are connected to the RasPi via jumper cables. So this is what we're aiming for:
</p>
<p class="gallery">
<a href="images/audiosphere-electronics.png" class="fancybox"><img src="images/audiosphere-electronics.png" width="480" alt="The electronics in a single diagram with the optical sensor on the left, the LED, the infrared LED and the three buttons on the right. (<a href='https://github.com/tliero/audiosphere/blob/master/misc/electronics-final.fzz'>Source file</a> for <a href='http://fritzing.org'>fritzing</a>)" /></a>
</p>
<p>
Assembling the circuit is pretty straight forward. Be careful about the optical sensor, though: There are two versions out there, <a href="http://www.vishay.com/docs/83751/cny70.pdf">one from Vishay</a> and <a hreaf="http://smallsystems.isn-oldenburg.de/smallrobots/ws2001/Tischkante/cny70.pdf">one from TEMIC</a> that has the detector transistor upside down compared to the other one. Also note that I used a LED that can operate directly on the RasPi's 3.3&nbsp;V without a series resistor. If you use a smaller one (which should also be sufficient for illumination), you will need one.
</p>
<p>
After <!-- http://www.instructables.com/id/Multiroom-Client-With-Raspberry-Pi-ZERO-and-PHAT-D/?ALLSTEPS --><a href="https://learn.pimoroni.com/tutorial/sandyj/soldering-phats">soldering the PHAT DAC onto the Raspberri Pi</a> (preferably using a <a href="images/gpio-header.jpg">GPIO header</a> that directly routes through all the GPIOs) the used PINs are connected with the jumper cables. <!-- Where these were not soldered to the contact, I used hot glue to fix the connection which worked pretty well. -->
</p>
<p>
Once everything is connected together, it can be put in the case for the software installation and final adjustments. Wait with the hot glue until everything has been tested, especially on the camera!
</p>
<p class="gallery">
<a href="images/buttons_and_circuit_board.jpg" class="fancybox" rel="collection03"><img src="images/buttons_and_circuit_board.jpg" width="320" alt="The circuit board after soldering with all resistors, the transistor and open contacts to be connected via jumper cables. In order to protect the wire cables and soldering points from breaking, I applied hot glue after testing." /></a>
<a href="images/phat_dac_soldering.jpg" class="fancybox" rel="collection03"><img src="images/phat_dac_soldering.jpg" width="320" alt="The PHAT DAC after soldering." /></a>
<a href="images/phat_dac_soldering_back.jpg" class="fancybox" rel="collection03"><img src="images/phat_dac_soldering_back.jpg" width="320" alt="By my low standards, that is a pretty decent soldering. You can also see the nylon nuts I used as spacers." /></a>
</p>
<p class="gallery">
<a href="images/circuit_board.jpg" class="fancybox" rel="collection04"><img src="images/circuit_board.jpg" width="320" alt="I did not solder the jumper wires to the RasPi but also fixed them with hot glue. This keeps them together as a unit, isolates them from one another, and the hot glue can be peeled off if something goes wrong." /></a>
<a href="images/piplayer-opened.jpg" class="fancybox" rel="collection04"><img src="images/piplayer-opened.jpg" width="320" alt="Interior view of the AudioSphere player with all components assebled. The circuit board is glued to the front side (not visible from this angle)." /></a>
</p>
<p>
What's missing in the pictures is how to get a screw thread behind the holes in the case: Use super glue to put three M3 nuts on washers (in order to enlarge the surface). When dried, use the super glue again to attach these nuts-on-washers behind the screw holes of the case. (Use the screws to adjust them so you can turn them in and out. I used <a href="http://www.uhu.com/produkte/alleskleber/detail/uhu-alleskleber-superstrong-safe.html?cHash=6d17927cfdf1797595540fe083329e0a">UHU Super Strong and Safe</a> which gives you some time for corrections after applying.) Et voilà, you now got yourself screw holes with threads on the player's case.
</p>
<h2 id="software">Software</h2>
<h3 id="system">System Installation</h3>
<p>
Before installing anything additionally, <a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/">Raspbian Lite</a> has to be <a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/README.md">installed on the SD card</a>. When the card is ready, it is necessary to at least once connect a monitor and a keyboard to the RasPi for the initial setup since SSH is disabled by default. As soon as SSH is enabled and Wi-Fi is configured, we can remove all the cables and continue to work remotely over ssh.
</p>
<p>
<em>From here on it's basically copy-and-paste to your SSH terminal. You might need to confirm or close something every now and then. Where a configuration file has to be edited, the contents that go to the file are also put in comments with a leading tab.</em>
</p>
<p>
Basic setup (with links to the references):
</p>
<pre class="pre-scrollable">
# Make sure that the latest versions are installed (this might take some time) (<a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/raspbian/updating.md">https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/raspbian/updating.md</a>)
sudo apt update
sudo apt dist-upgrade
# Basic setup: change the password, set the keyboard layout, Wi-Fi channels and hostname and enable SSH
sudo raspi-config
# Check kernel messages for errors
dmesg
# Check for connected USB devices
lsusb
# Install Wi-Fi client (<a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/wireless-cli.md">https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/wireless-cli.md</a>)
sudo apt install iw
# If not done yet, plug in the Wi-Fi adapter and reboot
sudo reboot
# Scan networks and add wi-fi network to configuration
sudo iwlist wlan0 scan
sudo nano /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
# network={
# ssid="The_ESSID_from_earlier"
# psk="Your_wifi_password"
# }
# Restart Wi-Fi
sudo ifdown wlan0
sudo ifup wlan0
# Check if wi-fi is connected
ifconfig wlan0
# Turn off
sudo shutdown -h now
</pre>
<p>
From here on you can connect via SSH over wi-fi. Unplug monitor, keyboard and the ethernet cable. It might also be helpful to configure a static IP for the Wi-Fi adapter in your router before continuing. Then restart the RasPi, <a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/remote-access/ssh/">connect via SSH</a> from a different computer and go on with the setup procedure.
</p>
<pre>
# Now that remote connection is available, disable HDMI (<a href="http://www.jeffgeerling.com/blogs/jeff-geerling/raspberry-pi-zero-conserve-energy">http://www.jeffgeerling.com/blogs/jeff-geerling/raspberry-pi-zero-conserve-energy</a>)
# (This line has to go *before* "exit 0" at the end of the file)
sudo nano /etc/rc.local
# # disable HDMI
# /usr/bin/tvservice -o
# Add this to config.txt to disable the ACT LED
sudo nano /boot/config.txt
# dtparam=act_led_trigger=none
# dtparam=act_led_activelow=off
# Configure NTP
sudo apt install ntp
sudo nano /etc/ntp.conf
# add time server to /etc/ntp.conf (line 16)
# server de.pool.ntp.org
sudo /etc/init.d/ntp restart
date
# Turn off
sudo shutdown -h now
</pre>
<p>
After the basic installation is done, it's time to bring everything together in the case. All components are connected but we'll wait using the glue gun until everything is tested thoroughly. Especially the webcam might need some in-place live adjustment. The easiest way to do this is by connecting the webcam to another computer while it is already in the case (see bash history below).
</p>
<p>
Now configure the additional hardware and software that is needed for the player. Before doing that, copy the contents of the <a href="https://github.com/tliero/audiosphere/tree/master/piplayer2">piplayer2 directory</a> (including subdirectories <code>sounds</code> and <code>test</code>) to <code>/home/pi</code> (either directly or via SCP). Have also one of the <a href="https://github.com/tliero/audiosphere/raw/master/documentation/QR%20Card%20Template.odt">test cards from the template</a> ready for testing the QR recognition.
</p>
<pre class="pre-scrollable">
# Install additional software
sudo apt install lirc zbar-tools mc moc fswebcam python3 python-rpi.gpio python3-rpi.gpio
# As a first test turn the LED on and off
python3 ~/test/lighton.py
python3 ~/test/lightoff.py
# We can also test the buttons and the sensor (press buttons, hold a card on the sensor to see if it switches from 'LOW' to 'HIGH') - stop with Ctrl-C
python3 ~/test/buttons.py
python3 ~/test/sensor.py
# Configure PHAT DAC (<a href="https://learn.pimoroni.com/tutorial/phat/raspberry-pi-phat-dac-install">https://learn.pimoroni.com/tutorial/phat/raspberry-pi-phat-dac-install</a>)
curl -sS get.pimoroni.com/phatdac | bash
# Check for errors
dmesg
# Plug in headphones or JBL connector cable, start mocp and test audio output via the PHAT DAC (Don't forget to turn on the speaker!)
mocp -S
mocp -l ~/sounds/scanning.mp3
mocp -x
# Determine the webcams USB ID and the available resolutions (<a href="http://askubuntu.com/questions/214977/how-can-i-find-out-the-supported-webcam-resolutions">http://askubuntu.com/questions/214977/how-can-i-find-out-the-supported-webcam-resolutions</a>)
lsusb
lsusb -s 001:006 -v | egrep "Width|Height"
# Webcam test: turn on the LED, take a photo and turn the LED off
# (The focus of the webcam should be adjusted before on another computer with a live picture)
python3 ~/test/lighton.py
sudo fswebcam -r 320x240 -d /dev/video0 -v ~/webcam-test.jpg
python3 ~/test/lightoff.py
# Copy ~/webcam-test.jpg to another computer and have a look at it
# If needed, adjust the webcam and repeat the step until the QR code recognition is reliable
# QR-Test: Hold a QR code card above the webcam then turn on the LED, decode the QR code and turn the LED off
# (Stop scanning for codes with Ctrl-C)
python3 ~/test/lighton.py
zbarcam --quiet --nodisplay --raw -Sdisable -Sqrcode.enable --prescale=320x240 /dev/video0
python3 ~/test/lightoff.py
# Enable lirc in /boot/config.txt and add parameters
sudo nano /boot/config.txt
# # Uncomment this to enable the lirc-rpi module
# dtoverlay=lirc-rpi,gpio_in_pin=23,gpio_out_pin=22
# add lirc configuration to /etc/lirc/hardware.conf
sudo nano /etc/lirc/hardware.conf
# LIRCD_ARGS="--uinput"
# LOAD_MODULES=true
# DRIVER="default"
# DEVICE="/dev/lirc0"
# MODULES="lirc_rpi"
# LIRCD_CONF=""
# LIRCMD_CONF=""
sudo reboot
<!--
# Copy the contents of the <a href="https://github.com/tliero/audiosphere/blob/master/documentation/lirc_jbl_iiip.conf">JBL remote configuration</a> to /etc/lirc/lircd.conf then restart lircd
sudo /etc/init.d/lirc restart
# Turn on music, list available commands and test remote control
mocp -S && mocp -l ~/adele.mp3
sudo lircd -d /dev/lirc0
irsend LIST JBLIIIP ""
## Der Befehl muss 2x schnell hintereinander gesendet werden. Offensichtlich muss die Konfiguration noch verbessert werden.
irsend SEND_ONCE JBLIIIP KEY_MUTE
-->
</pre>
<p>
When everything works as expected, everything is fixed together using hot glue. I glued the webcam, the circuit board and the USB hub in place so that nothing will fall out of place anymore, even if the player is moved around roughly.
</p>
<p>
<em>
While I really like hot glue, it's got its limits: I thought I could skip soldering the buttons to their wires by just twirling the cable ends to the contacts and then fix everything down with the hot pistol - bad idea. While being hot, the glue gets in between the wire ends and the contacts and perfectly isolates them. None of the buttons worked anymore. I had to peel the glue off the contacts with a cutter knife before soldering them properly back on again...
</em>
</p>
<p>
Now that everything is in place, we are ready for the final adjustments: Configure autostart for the player script and mount the SD card in read-only mode which makes the player robust against sudden loss of power. For that, we redirect the write access to a RAM disk.
</p>
<pre>
# Autostart for piplayer2.py with log output redirection (<a href="http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/8169/run-startup-application-as-a-specific-user">http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/8169/run-startup-application-as-a-specific-user</a>)
sudo nano /etc/rc.local
# ...
# su pi -c 'python3 /home/pi/piplayer2.py >> /home/pi/piplayer2.log 2>&1 &'
# exit 0
sudo reboot
# Check if running after restart
ps -ef | grep python
# Watch the log output while testing with QR code cards
tail -f /home/pi/piplayer2.log
# Switch to RAM disk and set the filesystem read-only (<a href="https://www.heise.de/ct/ausgabe/2016-21-Den-Raspi-als-Bluetooth-Empfaenger-einsetzen-3330683.html">https://www.heise.de/ct/ausgabe/2016-21-Den-Raspi-als-Bluetooth-Empfaenger-einsetzen-3330683.html</a>)
sudo nano /etc/fstab
# proc /proc proc defaults 0 0
# /dev/mmcblk0p1 /boot vfat defaults,ro 0 2
# /dev/mmcblk0p2 / ext4 defaults,noatime,ro 0 1
# tmpfs /var/log tmpfs nodev,nosuid 0 0
# tmpfs /var/tmp tmpfs nodev,nosuid,mode=1777 0 0
# tmpfs /tmp tmpfs nodev,nosuid,mode=1777 0 0
# tmpfs /home/pi/.config tmpfs nodev,nosuid,mode=1777,uid=pi 0 0
# tmpfs /home/pi/.moc tmpfs nodev,nosuid,mode=1777,uid=pi 0 0
# # a swapfile is not a swap partition, no line here
# # use dphys-swapfile swap[on|off] for that
sudo rm -rf /var/lib/dhcp/ /var/spool /var/lock /etc/resolv.conf
sudo ln -s /tmp /var/lib/dhcp
sudo ln -s /tmp /var/spool
sudo ln -s /tmp /var/lock
sudo ln -s /tmp/resolv.conf /etc/resolv.conf
# make /tmp on RAM disk writable
# shown here with the former additions to rc.local - note that the log redirect for the player script is changed also
sudo nano /etc/rc.local
# ...
#
# # make /tmp on RAM disk writable
# chmod 777 /tmp
#
# # disable HDMI
# /usr/bin/tvservice -o
#
# # start piplayer
# su pi -c 'python3 /home/pi/piplayer2.py >> /tmp/piplayer2.log 2>&1 &'
#
# exit 0
sudo reboot
</pre>
<p>
We can make the filesystem writeable again (until reboot) for maintenance by remounting it like this:
</p>
<pre>
sudo mount -o rw,remount /
sudo mount -o rw,remount /boot
</pre>
<p>
Until now, we can only play local files from the SD card (and audiostreams from the Internet). The final step is to connect the local share that stores all of our MP3 files. How this is done depends upon the type of share you would like to use. The most common type should be a SMB share that can be connected like this:
</p>
<pre>
# make SD writable
sudo mount -o rw,remount /
sudo mount -o rw,remount /boot
# create mount point
mkdir /home/pi/share
# Share einbinden
sudo nano /etc/rc.local
# sudo mount -t cifs -o user=guest,password= //192.168.1.125/media /home/pi/share
</pre>
<p>
HIER WEITER:
- Test-MP3 zu Template und Repository hinzufügen
</p>
<h3 id="python">Python Script</h3>
<h2 id="manual">User Manual</h2>
<h3 id="wi-fi"></h3>
<h3 id="qr-cards">QR Cards</h3>
</div>
</body>
</html>
Reference in New Issue View Git Blame Copy Permalink